Found across the Waaigat Bay from Punda, Scharloo is the newest of Willemstad's four historic districts and, as evidenced by its abundance of stately mansions, was home to Curaçao's richest citizens. Today, the wealthy have moved on to other neighborhoods, but the mansions have remained.
The inland region between Vaersenbaai and Grote Berg is known as Malpais, which can be translated as "The Badlands." Despite the rather uninviting name, we embarked on a hike through this undeveloped, uninhabited terrain, following the Biná and Jamanika trails, and ending with a swim at the secluded Boka Unico.
After visiting Boka Sami and the dilapidated Fort St. Michiel, we found a trail which led up the hill and along the cliffs to Vaersenbaai, home to Kokomo Beach. A short, mildly strenuous walk through the woods, followed by views over the Caribbean, and then cooling off in clear blue waters? Sigh, if only all our hikes were like this!
The plantations of colonial-era Curaçao had it rough, because the island's arid ground makes it difficult to grow produce or raise livestock. How exactly were the unlucky Dutch landowners going to earn the fabulous fortunes for which they'd come to the New World? Many turned their eyes to something which Curaçao has in abundance: seawater. Or rather, the salt inside of the seawater.
Playa Kanoa, on the windward side of Curaçao, isn't what comes to mind when you think "idyllic Caribbean beach." Like the rest of the eastern coast, it's subject to strong winds and rough water. But although big, consistent waves make swimming more difficult, I can think of at least one thing they're good for. Surf's on!
After scratching wounds into our arms and legs during a prickly hike that started at the parking lot of Playa Porto Mari, we returned eagerly to the beach. Soft white sand, cool blue water, and incredible reefs for snorkeling... if this were always the reward, I would go hiking every day.
Sint Willibrodrus sits along the edge of the Jan Kok Bay, on the western coast of Curaçao. It's a small town, but one with big ambitions. As you approach, it's impossible to miss the "Williwood" sign on a hill in the distance. Actually, you might miss it, if your attention has been captured by all of the flamingos.
Watamula, at the northern tip of Curaçao, is a windblown wasteland of jagged volcanic rocks. It's not an area in which you'd want to spend a majority of your vacation, but it has a few geological features that are worth hunting down.
The eastern coast of Curaçao is completely different from the tranquil west. Here, the Caribbean Sea greets the shore with power and violence. You won't want to swim, but it's fun to watch massive waves smash against the rocks. And nowhere is the view more impressive than the Shete Boka National Park.
We pulled our car into the parking lot and, for a few stunned seconds, sat in silence. We had found the perfect beach. The one which your optimistic mind envisions whenever you set off for the ocean. But Grote Knip was the very first beach we were visiting in Curaçao! Was it just luck we had already found the best one? Or... we allowed ourselves to hope... would all the island's beaches be this spectacular?
